Catsuit Buyers Guide

[Ataraxia]

Tightfit
Senior Postacrat
Username: Tightfit

Post Number: 196
Registered: 09-2002
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Posted on Tuesday, May 18, 2004 - 01:54 pm GMT: I totally agree. New Infoemation (to me) Just recently I discovered that rubberest have several or at least many more problems with fitting rubber, be it M2M or moulded dimensions and getting the so called proper fit than with woven fabrics or other types of plain vanilla street clothes.

Because of the computer age with a recent patent introduction, it now looks like we will have some new simple tools with tutoring becoming available to help solve most of the issues surrounding the dimensioning problem. I was recently invited to be a alpha test member to evaluate a totally new dimension measuring process that looks very promising in several areas of correcting the whole fitting process.

I also know that they are looking for interested people to join in with early recommendations and suggestions to shape the profile to fit specific individual needs for future performance. Even though this is a universal children's GP rated site the rubberest can have a positive influence to directing the growth to include all the features rubberest need for proper fitting garments. They think the introduction is designed to cost about or less than $10 US.

I was told the target date to available to the general public, at least in beta test form will be within just a couple of weeks. If you want to be involved or keep posted about it's progress on the growth. Just let me know. If you want to get more in to it, just send me your desired e-address and I will send you the required information.

TF


Drgummi
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Username: Drgummi

Post Number: 323
Registered: 06-2001
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Posted on Sunday, May 16, 2004 - 08:16 pm GMT: The usual problem with M2M stuff is that EVERYBODY under-measures themselves. Everyone reads what's inside their shirt collar and imagines that this is the real measurement - and it's not. In the days when I used to get M2M stuff done I would always get the shop (or somneone else) to measure me; these days I seem to conform to XL pretty closely, so I go with that. I'm not sure I agree that walking in M2M stuff will make the crotch go (assuming it's not zipped) - I used to work twelve hours in a club in close-fitting latex and it would be matt on the thighs from people sitting on me before the crotch would go.

Ataraxia
IAR Admin Team
Username: Ataraxia

Post Number: 841
Registered: 09-1998


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Posted on Saturday, May 15, 2004 - 09:12 pm GMT: Has anyone else found a solution to this problem?

Is including a reinforcement strip 90 degrees to the armpit seam any real help? My loose-fit Libidex jumpsuit has a strip like that although the stresses in it are probably not as acute as they would be in a tight-fitting catsuit.

Ideas?? How many lightbulbs does it take to screw in a Rubberist?

Flyer
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Username: Flyer

Post Number: 34
Registered: 06-2001
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Posted on Monday, February 17, 2003 - 05:01 pm GMT: I always blow out the crotch area on my suits, shorts, and the like. Same problem. a lot of work (walking) in that area, and high stress.

Catsuitguy
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Username: Catsuitguy

Post Number: 91
Registered: 05-2001
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Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 03:40 am GMT: My suits are made to measure and, yes, I understand the problem with making the armpit area stiffer - it's called a "hardpoint" in engineering. To me the only solution is for the pattern to be altered to give more 'loose' material under the armpits. When the arm is raised high above the head, the area under the armpit would not be over stretched,

Catsuitguy

Dark
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Username: Dark

Post Number: 228
Registered: 12-2001
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Posted on Saturday, February 15, 2003 - 11:57 pm GMT: It fails because the skin at the armpit / shoulder stretches more than almost any part of the body. If you examine the range of motion of the shoulder joint you will see that no other part of the human body has such range of motion. Reinforcing by doubling material may be conterproductive. If you make an area that needs to stretch, stiffer.. the adjoining unreinforced area will not be called on to do the stretching and the failure will occur at the boundry. What you actually need is a MORE stretchy, yet stronger material at the area of high stretch demand. Thinner material IS more stretchy, but it is all prone to failure from mico defects and it is all weaker. You have a dilemma there.

Gord
IAR Admin Team
Username: Gord

Post Number: 166
Registered: 09-1999
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Posted on Saturday, February 15, 2003 - 11:50 pm GMT: Catsuitguy,

Do you go for off-the-peg or made-to-measure? I'm kind of broad shouldered. I remember buying standard sizes and having all sorts of fit and fatigue problems. I've since opted for MTM (cheaper in the long run) from www.kastley.co.uk and have not had this problem since!

Gord. Information is everything

Catsuitguy
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Username: Catsuitguy

Post Number: 90
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Posted on Saturday, February 15, 2003 - 11:30 pm GMT: Wby is it that every catsuit that I buy eventually fails at the armpit? This is true of suits from SOA, Cocoon and Libidex. I am very careful about not using underarm deodorants and I shower bdfore gettig into the suit. I always ask for additional reinforcing for the armpit area and this helps, but eventually the damn thing will split. Repairing that area can be tricky, getting a smooth joint without puckering. It is really annoying having this happen time after time. I guess it must be the high stresses in this area and the complex joints under the arm. Anybody have any thoughts and suggestions?

Catsuitguy

[Ataraxia]

Archive through December 23, 2003

Copernic Summary of old DISCUS postings on this topic (see full text & pictures in window below):
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I like the detailing on the Libidex suit, by that I mean both the design and the way the suit is constructed.
I also found Coco kinda hard to deal with and the experience would make me think twice about ordering from them again.

Just a comment on Polymorphe, that Rubber_Prisoner mentioned ...

For example, identical items of the same size will not all fit identically, and a "medium" of one item (such as pants) might fit perfectly while a "medium" of another item (such as shorts) might not.

the important part is how they take care of the customer after the purchase.

the suit is still holding up, and i'm still happy with libidex.libidex and cocoon are in the top 10 latex manufacturers in the world, imho.

I prefer Libidex myself, my first catsuit came from Coocoon and it was way too large and they wouldn't do anything about it.

Must add that if you have the time and capital then pay the extra 20% etc and get a custom fit option - its the only way to go for something like that.

I've had a thin latex catsuit from Libidex made (thinest possible weight) and I could wear it 24/7....

I own both Libidex and Cocoon catsuits and I would have to say that Libidex is far better in quality than Cocoon.

The guy who does the Polymorphe designs pours his own latex and it is different than the sheeting that other companies use.

Hi Gord; I enjoy most of your scripts.

Hi Dilbert, (great handle!) If I had to find a defining line between Cocoon and Libidex, it would be that Libidex tends more towards women's fashions, and Cocoon towards rubber bondage.

Since catsuits are both, yet neither fashion nor bondage, it becomes in my mind a matter of personal taste as to which I prefer.

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[Ataraxia]

Copernic Summary of old DISCUS postings on this topic (see full text & pictures in window below):
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I have a neck entry suit that I quickly got to grips with.
"I'm thinking of buying a shoulder entry suit, but I'm a bit worried that it's very difficult to get into.

My boyfriend and I bought made to measure catsuits from Cocoon three years ago and were terribly disappointed in them.

Mine is too tight (and I had not gained weight from the time I ordered it) and his is too loose.

Mine is very uncomfortable to wear for more than an hour as the arms are so tight they make my arms fall asleep and it is too short through the torso.

It practically chokes me and squishes my privates.

Of course since they were made to measure we did not try them before we bought them and were not able to send them back and have them adjusted.

All catsuits I've bought so far were cocoon's, great quality and a good fit.

However, for my next catsuit I think I'll try libidex, they're a bit more expensive, but the suits look really great.

Hi everyone,From my personal experiance (and I have 4 catsuits) Libidex offer an incredable fit.If you like your catsuits tight fitting and well made then thats the one.I have also a Skintwo catsuit but it appears to be slightly thicker and does not offer the same freedom of movement.I'm not saying the quality is any different but the fit and cut for females is better from Libidex.

Thick will always rip easier on tightfitting stuff, especially in the areas which have been mentioned like backsides and under arms as these get stressed the most when dressing, and the thick latex just won't stretch as far.

A good rule of thumb would seem to be thinner latex for tight stuff and thicker material for looser fitting items.

Libidex offers a made to fit service where they take the measurements and build the suit to fit after making a mockup etc....

I wonder if the thicker rubber we tend to buy from Cocoon is more prone to tearing than the thinner more elastic rubber we buy from Libidex?

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[Ataraxia]

Copernic Summary of old DISCUS postings on this topic (see full text & pictures in window below):
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Just like Stretch6, I bought a shoulder zip latex catsuit from the late SOA F, and it is the best catsuit I have, except for my new full coverage custom made shoulder zip F (to the top of the hood) suit from Studio Strak F RDX, and love it for it's easy in and out style and fit.
Have a shoulder zip catsuit from late, lamented purveyors from Eastsound, WA.

Freedom of movement and flex plus fit in an off-the-shelf size is fantastic.

Will probably never be able to duplicate it.

Rubr - excellent news - so glad your purchase is such a success.

Also, I think your summary of the differences between Libidex F RDX and Cocoon F RDX is very concise: "So if you want a good suit with lots of options shop at cocoon, but if you want an excellent suit of great quality spend a little more and buy at libidex."

Cocoon's slant is towards rubber bondage and inflatable items with optional add-ons etc. I'm guessing most of their sales are in black.

I'm sure their gear is more likely to end up wet and messy.

I'm really impressed by the fit and workmanship of the suit, the quality is great and the rubber feels really smooth, totally unlike my other suit.

RubberMate-Please contact me privately via email to talk about creating IAR "gold shield" emblems in latex.

All I would say is, if you are well built with biceps and neck muscles, make sure the zip comes down low enough on the bicep, and always make sure you pull the smooth mid-torso of the suit high enough on your body, otherwise you get a 'droop' under the arm, and this can cause early failure of the suit at that point.

Shoulder zip picture is not really very clear.

Most damage is caused by excessive stress on a join or by a nick/cut which rapidly spreads.

Therefore I doubt the neck which only has a head to go through it will cause problems.

Well, cobalt and the quiet one, thanks for the information.

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[Ataraxia]

A Catsuit Buyers Guide

A Practical Guide to the Selection, Purchase, Wearing and Care of a Rubber Catsuit
(c)2002 by Catsuitguy

The latex rubber catsuit is often the most prized, sensual and expensive item in the rubberist?s collection. A quality, custom-made catsuit can easily cost upward of $400 (250 pounds). How does one select the right suit and protect one?s investment? This article attempts to answer some of the questions and is based on my personal experiences of buying and wearing catsuits over fifteen years. I?ve made a fair number of mistakes over the years and I?d like to help others avoid them.

This article covers:
What is a catsuit?

Molded vs. Glued Suits

Stock vs. Custom tailored

Rubber thickness (gauge) selection

Measurements+

Colors

Zipper placement

Added Extra?s

Selecting a Vendor

Ordering Options

Preparation

Wearing a Catsuit

Long Term wearing

Repair

Storage




What is a catsuit?

A catsuit is a one piece, close fitting latex rubber jump suit, somewhat similar to a wetsuit. In its simplest form, it covers the body, arms and legs. More complete suits can cover hands, feet and head and sometimes a suit with all these options will be called a ?total enclosure suit? The catsuit may be fitted with optional extra?s such as gags and sheaths (see ?Added Extras?). For many rubberists, it is the ultimate piece of rubber clothing and is revered for it?s special ?whole body? feel. Nothing else in the rubberist?s wardrobe feels quite like it or gives such pleasure and a feeling of well being.

Molded vs. Glued Suits

In general, rubber items may be either molded (from liquid latex injected into a die or mold) or glued from sheet latex. Molded rubber garments are relatively easy and cheap to make once the mold has been constructed. Unfortunately the molding process often results in thinner, weaker rubber, which is more apt to tear. Also, most molded suits are only available in stock sizes (see below) and you should check the manufacturers for exact measurements of these sizes

Glued rubber suits, made from sheets of rolled latex, are more expensive and difficult to produce but can be tailored to any measurements and are usually stronger and more resistant to tearing.

Stock vs. Custom tailored

Many vendors make catsuit in stock sizes ? S, M, L, XL etc. ? and if you are sized right to fit in one of these then you are in luck. Buying a stock catsuit will save you money and usually get you the suit quicker. However, it is worth spending an extra 10-20% to get a suit custom tailored using your exact measurements (see ?Measurements?) for a near-perfect fit. Custom tailoring also allows the buyer to add extra features such as thicker rubber on the feet or specific reinforcing.

Rubber thickness (gauge) selection

Most vendors can supply a catsuit in varying thickness (gauges) of rubber from 0.012 to 0.045 in (0.31 to 1.17 mm) as shown below:



Thinner gauge rubber stretches more easily and thus can be made tighter and still be comfortable. Thicker rubber, on the other hand, stretches less and can be less comfortable (chafing at joints, heat build-up etc.) but is more durable, hardwearing and less prone to tearing. Most buyers have their own preference and find the right balance between strength and stretchiness. It should be noted that the terms ?heavy?, ?medium? are not consistent across the industry and once again you should contact the vendor for exact thick nesses. Some manufacturers (e.g. Cocoon) allow you to vary the gauge locally ? making the feet a heavier gauge than the rest of the suit for instance.

Measurements

Getting complete and accurate body measurements is a vitally important part of buying a custom made catsuit if the suit is to fit properly, be comfortable and last for a long time. Most vendors will allow the buyer to make detailed custom measurements and many supply a useful body chart (see chart below) to help the process. The measurements should be taken three times against bare skin unless indicated otherwise and a second person to assist is recommended. It is very important to take accurate measurements and not ?shave off inches? to try and get a tighter fit. Just tell the vendor what kind of fit is required ? loose, tight, skintight - and they will make the necessary adjustments. A very tight suit may result in some pinching or soreness especially around joints (knees, elbows etc.)




Colors

For most fetish rubberists the only true colors to choose from are red, black or transparent. For fashion rubberists there is a whole spectrum of colors available. Every rubber vendor will be able to supply a catsuit in black in every gauge and most will also have red in most gauges. For other colors there may be fewer choices in thickness. Some vendors may even have some patterned rubber, such as animal prints available, but expect to pay more for them. A typical color chart is shown here. One thing to remember with colors other than red or black is that matching accessories (such as gloves, hoods etc) may be hard to find. Transparent rubber has it?s own problems including being very susceptible to stains and yellowing and more prone to tearing,



Zipper placement

The three main means of entry into a catsuit are front zipper, rear zipper or neck/shoulder zipper. Each has their advantages and disadvantages. The front zipper is the easiest of three to use, but the zipper can spoil the sleek look of the suit. A separate crotch zipper to allow urination etc. is usually required. The rear zipper can be difficult to use, especially on a very tight suit or without assistance, but generally looks better than the front zipper. The main problem with the full-length rear zipper is that it limits mobility when bending over, as the zipper cannot stretch. On the other hand the zipper is very
strong and will strengthen the suit. A short back zipper (say 14 to 16 inches down from the neck) combined with a crotch zipper may be a good compromise. The neck/shoulder entry looks very good (as the zippers are nearly invisible from front or back) and bending mobility is not impeded. However getting into a neck entry suit can be difficult and it limits the attachment of hoods. Again, a separate crotch zipper would be required. Zippers can be ordered with pulls at each end. Zippers will leak DWS* so crotch zippers can be a problem for some. Gravity will prevail.

(Actually, I have envisioned a suit that comes into halves joined by a waist zipper covered by a flap, which would hide the zipper. This would be very easy to put on (much like donning pants and a sweater) and leave the upper torso completely free of zippers.)

One thing to note with zippers: Check how well the zipper is attached to the suit, as this is often an area where the suit will fail. Look for rivets at the ends of the zipper to prevent the zipper coming away from the rubber.


Added Extra?s

Many vendors will allow you to add extra features to your basic catsuit ? above and beyond the usual hoods, gloves and feet. Female catsuits can be ordered with or without breast cups. Sheaths (c & b), anal plugs, gags (with & without inflation devices), D-rings, blindfolds, nasal breathing tubes are all available, usually at extra cost. It is possible to buy a suit that covers the entire body and fills every orifice, hence the term ?total enclosure suit?

Also some manufacturers will allow you to add reinforcing to certain ?high wear? areas such as the soles of the feet, under the armpits and on elbows and knees. Adding these will greatly improve the life of the catsuit.

* DWS Dreaded White Stuff ? a mixture of talc and sweat that tends to leak out of zippers or arms or leg holes. The bane of all rubberists and a dead give away

Secting a Vendor

A quick scan of the IAR Links will show that there are dozens of rubber manufacturers and vendors in the market place. Many are just resellers of other makers products. Many are selling cheap molded items, and for some items like gloves or underwear, these places are adequate. However when you are spending several hundred dollars on a catsuit you want to be sure that vendor is a reputable company with a good track record. Quality construction, good customer service and on-time delivery are as important as stylish designs, good fit and low cost.

The RubberDex of the IAR provides valuable guidance to the good and bad vendors and lists several hundred rubber garment suppliers. The following vendors have received positive remarks from IAR members and they generally have good, secure Websites for on-line ordering (see Ordering Options)

Europe:

• Cocoon http://www.cocoon1.com 72 ^?
• Libidex http://www.libidex.co.uk 110 ^?
• Regulation http://www.regulation-ltd.co.uk 123 ^?
• De Mask http://www.demask.com 39 ^?
• Simon O http://www.latex.at/ 1780 ^?

Australia:

• http://www.studiostrak.com.au 131 ^?

North America:

• www.whiplashusa.com 246 ^?
• www.slyx.com 6749 ^?
• [nimuecount]Catsuit_Buyers_Guide[/nimuecount] 19 ^?

Ordering Options

Some vendors have retail outlets and if you live within driving distance, then the easiest method of buying your catsuit is to go the shop, get measured for the suit and pick it up later. For most of us, ordering a suit involves sending in the order (by mail or on-line), providing the manufacturer with measurements and giving a credit card number. Nearly every vendor will accept orders by mail, fax or e-mail and many have well laid-out secure Web sites. Paying by credit card is recommended over cash or money orders because if the seller fails to deliver, you have some recourse through the credit card company (though explaining the missing article might be embarrassing). It also smoothes the foreign currency hassles when dealing with overseas vendors.

The vendor should acknowledge receipt of your order (usually by e-mail) and the better ones will not charge until the item is shipped. In the past I have received progress reports from the companies I have dealt with. Typically, a made-to-measure catsuit will take 4-6 weeks from order to delivery, but sometimes it can be a short as 2 weeks or as long as 3 months. We rubberists can get a little impatient when waiting for our new gear!

Preparation

When the great day finally arrives and the suit is delivered, the temptation is to jump right in and wear it immediately. However a few preparatory tasks will make the suit longer and be easier to wear.

First, give the suit a good hand washing in warm soapy water. This will remove any residual oils and treatments resulting from the manufacturing process. Then let it drip dry inside and out.

Second, if you hadn?t already asked for reinforcing when you ordered the suit, spend some time now and reinforce the feet (soles and toes), elbows, armpits and at the base of zippers. Use a patch of thin latex of a matching color on the inside surface (see Repairs).

Third, put a little lubrication on the zippers ? petroleum jelly is ideal - so that the zippers will run more easily.

Finally, dust the inside of the (dry) suit with talcum powder to make getting the suit on a lot easier and to prevent the rubber from sticking to itself.

With the suit prepared, it?s time for the wearer to get ready. Take a shower to remove body oils and sweat. Anti-perspirants are not recommended as they can contain chemicals that can attack the rubber. Cut your toenails fairly short, as they will tend to cut through the rubber.

The choice of talc or some form of lubricant is a personal one. I have always found talcum powder to be much cheaper and easier to use than the silicone gels available. Some people will apply the powder to the body, but I prefer to coat the inside of the suit. Simply pouring the talc (or corn starch) into the legs and armholes and then flapping the suit around will evenly distribute the powder. Other people swear by gels, but I find them messy and expensive.

Wearing a Catsuit

Wearing a catsuit for the first time can be an exhilarating experience but can take some getting used to. Provided the suit is well lubricated, it shouldn?t be too difficult to get into. Rolling the rubber up the legs and arms is safer than pulling and watch the fingernails. as even the slightest nick can lead to a disastrous failure. The rubber can be smoothed to remove wrinkles. The hardest part is usually the zipper, especially if the suit has a rear zipper and zipper flap (it?s very easy to get the zipper stuck in the flap). With a second person to help, there is no problem, but pulling up a rear zipper alone can pose some difficulties. I have used a combination of hook & cord (inserted into the hole in the zipper pull tab) and a wooden coat hanger to pull/push zipper up my back.

The thrill as that zipper is finally closed and you fully enveloped in rubber is like nothing else. The rubber will feel cool at first but soon warm up to skin temperature. After the suit is on and all the wrinkles smoothed out I like to give the suit a good polish. Latex polish is available for some vendors, but I have used many of the silicone rubber products available in automotive stores (like Armorall) with good results.

Wearing a very tight suit for more than few hours can be quite tiring and some people develop rashes or soreness where the rubber pinches the skin (at elbows or knees for instance). In warm weather there might be quite a bit of sweating and drinking lots of fluids is encouraged. Sleeping in complete latex coverage is difficult at first, partially due to the heat problem and partially due to arousal. Eventually the body gets used to the rubber and sleep becomes easier. My personal record for wearing a catsuit is a little over 60 hours and I was exhausted at the end of it.

The easiest and most effective way to remove catsuit is in the shower. Not only does the warm water make removal easier it washes the suit clean of all the body oil and PERrspiration that have accumulated over time. Washing the suit in warm soapy water then rinsing in clear water and hanging it up to drip dry will make the suit last longer.


Long term wearing

Here, I would define ?long-term? as anything over 24 hours. Many people have dreamed of wearing rubber 24/7 ?24 hours a day, 7 days a week. But for most of us this is impractical. We have families and jobs and for medical reasons wearing rubber for days on end may be dangerous. Even after a couple of days the skin can become dry and flaky and the joints may become sore and inflamed. One major problem is defecation ? it may be difficult to adequately clean oneself after a bowel movement. For most of us the single hardest obstacle to long tem catsuit wearing is getting adequate sleep as described above. Obviously wearing a well-fitting and comfortable catsuit is much easier than in one that is too tight and confining. Addtionally, wearing a suit for long periods in temperatures that are either too hot or too cold will be difficult, so spring and fall are probably the best times to try and undertake a long period of rubber enclosure. Getting some prolonged sleep will be difficult, especially for the firdt few days until either exhaustion sets in or the body acclimatizes to the tight rubber. Sleeping pills can certainly help in the early days. It is very important to get adequate liquids at all times as fluid loss through sweating can be significant.


Repair

Even the best made and well looked after suit will need some repair at some time. Torn seams, small holes, splitting at the joints are common problems and should be repaired immediately or the defect will soon propagate and lead to a major failure.

Seams that have come unglued are fairly easy to fix. Cleaning both surfaces of the seam with a mild solvent (to remove oils or polish) then apply a little rubber adhesive to both sides and allow to dry for a couple of minutes. Then press the two sides together and apply pressure for several minutes. Allow the joint to dry for at least 24 hours before use
les and tears will require patching.

Clean the inner surface around the hole with the solvent and lightly abrade the area with fine-grit sandpaper. Cut a circular patch an inch bigger in diameter than the hole of the thinnest gage of matching rubber available. Apply glue to the inside surface of the suit around the hole and to the matt surface of the patch. The patch will probably curl at first. When both surfaces are dry to the touch, straighten out the patch and press it firmly over the hole. Apply pressure for a couple of minutes, then dust the patch with talc and allow to dry for at least 24 hours.

Major tears and splits
These can de repaired using the methods above, but will probably look ugly.
It's usually better to return the garment to the manufacturer.

Storage

After thoroughly washing and drying the catsuit, it is important to store it properly, especially if it is used infrequently. It should be kept in a cool dry place out of direct sunlight and away from sources of heat. A closet in an unused and unheated room is ideal. It should be lightly powdered prior to storage and laid flat if possible. Try to avoid metal coat hangars as these may react with the rubber and cause stains or blemishes. Polishing the suit withlatex polish is also a good idea.

[latexsuitman]

Hi All

Just bought a FM4 catsuit from Cocoon 72 ^? off the peg and I am very pleased with it. The material gauge is HL which provides just the right level of restriction. This is the first time that I have bought a catsuit from a supplier previously I have made my own. I think I will buy from them again in the future. The execution is very good but not as fine as Libidex 110 ^?. I do not have a Libidex catsuit but I have bought my wife some stockings in light weight material, their tailoring is excellent. I agree with one of Gord's earlier notes it depends what you are after if its fashion then libidex have the edge.

We own both Libidex and Cocoon suits. They both are well made. The differences as far as I can tell from our suits
Libidex:
uses heavier (stronger) zippers
makes tailored feel
hems (finishes) every edge.. cuff, etc.
more responsive
better tailoring

The made to measure coccoon suit was an awful fit the first time and getting it redone made the whole deal from ordering to "satisfaction" a period of many months. They did send some complimentary stuff to make up for this.

I like them both, but if "fashion" and cut were important I would tend toward Libi, but I know Coco is great for heavy rubber and custom "rigs".

[encased]

as a flip side to dark's post, i've bought from both. my ex gf's cocoon catsuit was flawless and perfectly fit the first time, well made, and had a very robust feel to it. a suit i'd bought from libidex was painfully ill tailored, had two left feet, and the arms were about 6 inches too short. it's possible i may have messed up taking measurements, but i am 100% certain it wasn't 6 inches short. plus, i'm pretty sure i have a right foot however, libidex was very helpful in correcting this, and i ended up with a great suit. i have since then ordered another suit from libidex, and it was very well made... no complaints here! the point is, both are very good companies, and i would not hesitate buying from either of them. companies can make mistakes, but it's how they handle them that impresses me.

[drgummi]

My overall impression is that Libidex use more modern and intricate patterns, whereas Cocoon make more traditional and more bondage-oriented stuff. The whole made to measure thing is a bloody minefield, which is why I am happy to be close enough to XL to fit without major stress - I have yet to meet any latex designer who can turn an M2M item around in the timeframe they *say* they can do it in; personally I suspect this is because to get M2M right you really need to be stood in front of the designer and letting them take the measurements - home measurement is fraught with difficulty and misinterpretation.

As to the two companies, why compare at all? One is in Birmingham, the other is in London. They serve slightly different markets; they have different approaches, and differing attitudes to web-based ordering too. Cocoon has the larger showroom; this may be about to change, though, from the rumours I have heard.

I'm surprsied in the meantime that nobody has mentioned the near-impossibliity of a) finding and then b) getting into the Marquis showroom in Solingen: I have never managed to get there when they are open, and they don't have either opening times, or even a doorbell, on their front door!

[rubberslavedoll]

Hmmmmm, my overall opinion is Libidex. Their stuff is high quality in my opinion while Cocoon's stuff is crap. I bought a suit from cocoon and the latex unglued from the zipper on the first time I wore it. They wanted to charge me $50 to reglue the mistake that never should have happened. So i'll never buy from them again.